Gas Burner Won't Light
You turn the knob. Click, click, click. No flame. Or the burner lights and dies the second you let go. Maybe one burner works and the other three just tick. It's dinner time and the pan is already hot. Most of the time this is something small and fixable, not a dead range. Here's how we sort it out.
- Safe checks only
- All major brands
- Written quotes
- A real person answers
- Open 7 days
- Written quote before work starts
Taking calls until 5:00 PM PT
What the clicking (or silence) is telling you
A gas burner needs three things at once: gas at the port, a spark or flame to light it, and a clean path for both. When you hear clicking but get no flame, spark is happening and gas is not arriving — or it's arriving somewhere it can't catch. When you hear nothing at all, the igniter side is the problem. If the burner lights and then goes out when you release the knob, that's usually the flame sensor circuit on a range with a safety valve. Different sounds, different repairs. Tell us which one you hear when you call us and we'll show up with the right parts.
Start with the cheap stuff: a dirty burner cap
This is the one we find most on Las Vegas service calls. Boil-overs, bacon grease, and a spilled pot of pasta water leave residue in the little slots around the burner ring. Add our hard water minerals from washing the cap in the sink, and those ports crust over. Gas can't get out evenly. You get a weak flame on one side, or nothing. A burner cap sitting crooked does the same thing. It has to seat flat. If someone pulled the grates for cleaning and set things back in a hurry, one cap may be off by a hair. That's enough.
Next up: moisture and a wet igniter
Swamp cooler running, humidity swinging, a mopped floor, a kettle steaming all afternoon — the ceramic igniter tip picks up moisture and stops sparking clean. Sometimes every burner clicks at once even though you only turned one knob. That's a classic wet-or-shorted igniter signal. Cleaning spills is another version of this. A soaked switch under a knob keeps sending the spark command. The range isn't broken; it's damp. Letting things dry out fully often clears it. If the clicking never stops after a day of drying, the igniter or its switch needs replacing, and that's a parts job.
Safe checks you can do right now
Turn the burners off first. Then: Lift the grate and burner cap. Look at the ports — crusty, dark, blocked? Wipe the cap with a damp cloth, dry it fully, set it back flat and level. Check the other burners. If all four are dead, look at your gas supply. Does the water heater still work? Did anyone shut a valve after service? Check the igniter tip for chips or cracks. Look, don't scrape. Stop there. Don't open the back panel, don't touch gas lines, don't lift the cooktop. If you smell gas at all, shut the supply off, get outside, and call the gas utility before anyone else.
What we do that you can't do from the kitchen floor
We meter the spark module and each igniter to see which one is drawing wrong. We test the safety valve and the flame sensor with the burner running, which tells us whether the valve is failing or the sensor just needs cleaning. We check gas pressure at the appliance rather than guessing. And we pull the cooktop safely to look at wiring that's chafed or a spark wire that's arcing to the frame. That's the difference — we're measuring instead of swapping parts and hoping. We work swing hours because ranges quit at dinner, not at 9 a.m. Call us and tell us what you hear.
Gas Burner Won't Light — quick answers
Why do all my burners click when I only turn on one?
Usually moisture or a stuck knob switch keeping the spark circuit energized. Dry the cooktop thoroughly and give it a day. If the clicking continues, the igniter switch or spark module needs testing.
Is it safe to keep using the range if one burner won't light?
If you smell no gas and the burner isn't leaking, the other burners are generally fine to use. Turn the dead burner's knob off. Any gas odor means stop, ventilate, and call the utility.
Can I light a gas burner with a match instead?
Many ranges allow it, but be careful — turn the knob on only briefly, light immediately, and never let gas build up. It's a stopgap, not a fix. Get the igniter or valve looked at.
How it works
- Step 1
Tell us what it's doing
Ring us or fill in the form. Give us the noise, the smell, the error code, the brand. Small details help us load the right parts before we ever knock on your door.
- Step 2
We come look
Our tech tests the machine instead of guessing. You hear what failed and why, in plain words. Then you decide whether repairing it makes sense or replacing it makes more sense.
- Step 3
Repair and retest
Approved work gets done, often the same visit. We run a full cycle before packing up, wipe down the area, and show you what changed so nothing surprises you next week.
- A real person answers
- Open 7 days
- Written quote before work starts
Questions worth asking any repair company
Ask these of anyone you let into your home — us included. Call and we'll answer all five before you book anything.
- 1Ask for their license numberThen verify it with your state licensing board rather than taking it on trust.
- 2Ask for proof of insuranceLiability cover protects you if something goes wrong in your home.
- 3Get the quote in writingIncluding the trip fee, whether it's credited against the repair, and parts.
- 4Ask how they handle callbacksIf the same fault returns, what happens? Get the answer before work begins.
- 5Check their own reviewsLook the business up independently — their Google profile, not just what they tell you.
Why homeowners call us
- We know hard waterValley water leaves scale on everything. Clogged dishwasher jets, crusted washer valves, water heaters that groan. We check for mineral buildup as a matter of habit, because around here it's usually part of the story.
- Swing-shift friendlyNot everybody is home at ten in the morning. We schedule around night shifts, split shifts, and long commutes. Tell us the window that actually works for your household and we'll aim for it.
- Independent, not steeredNobody pays us to push a brand. We service all major makes as an independent shop, so our advice on repair versus replace comes from what we saw inside your machine.
- Straight talk on old unitsSome appliances aren't worth another part. We'll say so. If a repair is likely to buy you real time, we'll say that too, and let you pick from there.
- All major brands, gas & electricWhirlpool, Samsung, LG, GE, Maytag, Bosch, KitchenAid and more — as an independent repair company.
- Straight answersIf it isn't worth repairing, we'll say so — often on the phone.
About this guide
If the safe checks didn't fix it, the fault is real
Describe what you found and we'll take it from there — booking takes about a minute.
- A real person answers
- Open 7 days
- Written quotes
- All major brands
- Gas & electric
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